CUCINA urbana in Bankers Hill
505 Laurel St San Diego, CA
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Grilled octopus, creamer potato, kohlrabi, pickled pearl onion, etc.
CUCINA urbana is one of the few San Diego restaurants to receive a Michelin Bib Gourmand. While San Diego's Michelin listings are modest compared to Los Angeles, these recognized establishments often provide valuable insight into a city's dining landscape.
The grilled octopus was excellent – tender and juicy throughout, never becoming tough as it cooled. The accompanying elements complemented the octopus without overshadowing its natural flavor. The well-seasoned potatoes came smashed, making them easy to portion and enjoy alongside each bite. While the pearl onions were meant to be pickled, they offered more of a mild crunch than tangy flavor.
Rigatoni bolognese
What sets this dish apart is an unexpected twist in pasta shape. Instead of traditional full-length rigatoni, the pasta comes cut in half – a departure from their previous preparation seen in older reviews. This modification significantly impacts the eating experience. While the smaller pasta pieces might appeal to some, I found myself missing the traditional rigatoni length. The shortened rigatoni presentation does offer a unique advantage – each piece comes generously stuffed with ragu, creating an experience reminiscent of tripa.
The dish also features small ricotta chunks scattered throughout, matched in size to the shortened pasta for visual harmony. However, this precise portioning removes the diner's ability to control their preferred cheese-to-pasta ratio in each bite.
Despite these observations, the overall portion remains generous.
Fig + pancetta pizza with caramelized onion, gorgonzola, pecorino cream, endive
The fig and pancetta pizza, despite its undersized fig portions, demonstrates CUCINA urbana's signature approach to flavor composition. Rather than featuring bold, dominant ingredients, the dish creates interest through a careful orchestration of subtle elements that reveal themselves with each bite. The caramelized onions achieve an ideal texture—neither too soft nor too firm—while strategically placed gorgonzola offers measured bursts of flavor without overwhelming the palate. While the crust plays a supporting role, it provides a reliable foundation with proper structure and bake.
Tiramisu, marsala caramel, mascarpone, hazelnut, finger cake
This tiramisu's departure from tradition—replacing espresso-soaked ladyfingers with espresso-flavored cake—fundamentally alters the dessert's character. Though the addition of crushed hazelnuts shows thoughtful flavor pairing, the cake-based interpretation, combined with a modest portion size, makes it difficult to justify the price for those seeking an authentic tiramisu experience.
CUCINA urbana demonstrates a clear philosophy, emphasizing subtle flavors and creative interpretations of classic dishes. While their measured approach to seasoning and innovative twists show ambition, the execution often falls short of its potential. Though the restaurant succeeds in creating balanced dishes, their interpretations, at least to my palate, frequently miss opportunities for deeper flavor development and more cohesive ingredient integration.